It's weird how dishes come back around in my life when I need them. Or am in need of some feeling I had that I miss or a misplaced. There is no escaping. i remember my first bite of Lombardi's pizza with Joe Cheskin before I moved to NYC. My first bite of Jacquimo's fried chicken in New Orleans when I decided I should never try and be a vegetarian again, my first gumbo that same night, biting into my aunt Chi's homemade vietnamese spring rolls, the smell of home made Pho in her kitchen. These senses are strong remimders of who we are and where we come from, who loves us, and who we love.
While in Beirut a couple of summers ago with my friend, Ahmad I got accustomed to his style of cooking and the roots of it were in Lebanon. I don't see him much these days since moving my operations to Austin, but these flavors have stayed with me and probably will forever. I wrote about that simple red tomato sauce the other day and I started thinking about some other smells and flavors that I wanted to recreate from that hang. I make lamb kebobs and a tzatziki ever since that summer. They called it kofta and it was my favorite. I could eat it everyday. Food reminds me of people and sometime people remind me of food.The lamb meatball is similar. They eat raw lamb there dipped in whipped garlic, stewed lamb, gilled lamb. It is the predominant meat I saw on the table... next to chicken? I pick lamb everytime. I'll confess ate the testicles one night and they were incredible, like sweetbreads but better. I digress.
there is one way they season lamb that is correct on all senses. It crushes me. leaves me so satisfied I could eat it everyday. They got it down. The quick trick is chinese five spice powder (star anise, clove, ginger, cinnamon, and fennel seed)+ cayenne + cumin + corriander +garlic powder or minced garlic... this is to taste, it is strong stuff but I suppose I try to have at least a full tsp of this blend total (always heavy on the cayenne)... if you have some of these you are good all of these you are doing great. Break off a nug and cook it to test for flavor and salt. Adjust. After a while you just use the force with this stuff. I just eyball it and it comes out great everytime. About a half a teaspoon or so of salt and minced half onion + one egg and some bread crumb or in my case rice bread crumbs. mix well and start rolling balls on a sheetpan and put in the ven at 350 or 375 for 20 or 30 mins... test 'em.
on the stove top, slow and low cook some whole garlic in olive oil, add any left over onions... let onions get translucent and pour in the greek strained yogurt. I had a little more than half a medium sized tub. Two single serving yogurts should do the trick.. When the balls are done pour into the yogurt sauce. I have seen a cup or more of really good white wine go in there and reduce, but I had a lemon for my acid and it was wonderful and sour, bitter with the aromatics and juices of the lamb blended in. I think you should drink the wine and add the lemon.... Unless the wine is flowing then what the hell.
Funny thing, I thought I was going to Beirut to make a record or something like that, I ended up with a first class culinary education. Hats off to Ahmad where ever you are, probably making dinner for some nice folks. I'm sure the lamb meat balls are on the menu. A classic and a hit every time. I made that record and am gunna name it... tomorrow.
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